Knowmark Travelblog: Southwest France 2005

Tuesday, April 26

A perfect day in the Cahors A.O.C.

Today we had absolutely glorious weather, a perfect 3.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale: clear blue sky; no precipitation; comfortable, shirt-sleeve temperature. We took the opportunity to visit two more wineries - this time in the Cahors A.O.C. The first stop was at Domaine La Berangeraie; it was a highlight of this trip and probably the best visit of its kind that we have made. Steve corresponded with Marlène Oberdorf-Beranger back during the winter and today we met her. Despite our late arrival (corresponding with the beginning of the lunch break) she kindly took an hour to explain to us the philosophy of the family-run business and to allow us to taste several of their wines. The property is absolutely beautiful and the wine delicious. We bought three bottles - one to drink here and two to bring home.

Marlène recommended a restaurant in nearby Puy L'evêque which provided us with the light lunch we wanted - we shared smoked salmon served on hot potatoes and a tomato/basil salad with fresh mozarella and a balsamic dressing, accompanied by a tartine tapenade.

After lunch we wandered around the area a bit more and stopped at another of the wineries researched by Steve prior to the trip, Clos La Coutale which has a wine (2002 vintage) awarded two stars in the 2005 Guide Hachette des Vins. We tasted it and really liked it but the woman serving us said that they had no more for sale, only the 2003! We expressed our regrets, telling her that it was that particular wine (and vintage) that brought us there and it was the only one we were interested in purchasing. And, as we began to leave, two bottles of the 2002 miraculously appeared!

We wandered back to Belvès on small back roads just in time for a nap. (Slow travelling can be quite exhausting!) Dinner this evening was at the hotel, with Susan finally trying the area's most famous delicacy - foie gras, in this case served with Anne's homemade, cumin-flavoured onion jam which made a marvelous combination. The main course was the local speciality of tourtière also made by Anne. This version is made with shredded duck meat and potatoes in a flaky pastry with herbs - quite different from what Graham's mother, Denise, used to make, but equally delicious.

Tomorrow we have a reservation at Font de Gaume - a site containing some of the last publicly-accesible paleolithic cave paintings. We're really looking forward to it!

Another view of Belves
Another view of Belvès (note the gardener in the foreground)

View from the tasting room at Domaine la Berangeraie
View from the tasting room at Domaine la Berangeraie

Susan in the tasting room at Domaine la Berangeraie
Susan in the tasting room at Domaine la Berangeraie

Our gracious host - Marlene - at Domaine la Berangeraie
Our gracious host - Marlène - at Domaine la Berangeraie

We had lunch at lAganit
We had lunch at l'Aganit in Puy L'evêque

Puy lEveque from south of the Lot River
Puy l'Evêque from south of the Lot River

Another view of Puy lEveque
Another view of Puy l'Evêque

Wonderful wisteria at Clos la Coutale
Wonderful wisteria at Clos la Coutale

Clos la Coutale 2002 (Cahors)
Clos la Coutale 2002 (Cahors)

Cuvee Maurin 2002 from Domaine la Berangeraie (Cahors)
Cuvée Maurin 2002 from Domaine la Berangeraie (Cahors)

Cuvee Juline 2001 from Domaine la Berangeraie (Cahors)
Cuvée Juline 2001 from Domaine la Berangeraie (Cahors)